Colorado - Denver, Aspen

Since Ray and I were born we have gone to Colorado almost every year. We'd travel there for "ski trips" when our parents and the parents our closest family friends would take turns watching us in the ski lodge between runs.

Soon after we were skiing in harnesses, then being shepherded away to ski school with balloons taped to our shoulders indicating the ski level we'd accomplished.

We hadn't been to Colorado as a family since 2011, when Lindsay, our life-long friend, married Nate, the coolest guy in Colorado.

The brothers give their congratulations to the Bride and Groom, September 2011.

And, famously from the dance floor of the wedding, because I can't resist--

For better or worse, the best moment of my life.

Finally, in 2014, we made it back to Colorado.

Ray, having only just gotten back from Argentina, quickly threw his warm weather clothes aside, stuffed a suitcase full of ski apparel and headed out the door with the rest of us.

People asked us why we'd go to such a cold place for early Spring vacation.

Ray and I love Colorado. It is both of our favorite state-- the place other than New York we've been the most and where both of us went to school in 2005 and 2007 respectively at the High Mountain Institute. For us, returning with the family was a true blessing.

The trip couldn't have come at a better time. Each of us felt like he/she had been working like a dog...

A day at the office for the McGaugheys

At times we had unseasonably bad weather

But fortunately we hadn't planned a beach vacation

Because bad snow meant good skiing

And we love skiing.

In all the years we've been going to Colorado we've never been to Aspen. We're traditionally a Copper Mountain family. Aspen has always seemed inaccessible to us-- too expensive, exclusive and far away. This time, however, we got an offer we couldn't refuse. Our dear friend Pat offered up her family's place, an unbelievable cabin five miles outside of town. 

The three story cabin may have been the most luxurious place we've stayed on vacation, complete with private rooms for each of us, a sauna and a creek in the backyard.

For anyone who hasn't been to Aspen, "town" looks like this--

If only a city block in Brooklyn ended with a ski mountain...

The best part about our trip to Aspen-- even better than the 20" of fresh powder that fell while we were there-- was getting to spend so much time together as a family.

Ray takes a "selfie"

Dave drinks mate

Family Unite!

All smiles as we return to the grind in NYC. Colorado was an amazing trip, from seeing our wonderful friends to spending quality time together as a family and, most importantly, to the McGaughey brothers shredding the "gnar"!

The Art and Flair of Buenos Aires

As we entered the final chapter of our trip, Mark and I reflected on how nature-focused our itinerary had been.  From the northern deserts and valleys to the southern mountains and glaciers and up to the jungle to see Iguazu Falls, we'd experienced so much of the Argentine great outdoors but taken in so little urban culture.  So we reserved a full week for Buenos Aires, a city we'd passed through three times already but had no chance to explore. 

The striking Puente de la Mujer (Woman's Bridge)

We hopped on a graffiti tour.  I love tours. 

My favorite work of street art.  This is a political commentary on the landlord of this house who closed it up with cinder blocks and is sitting on the property in hopes of appreciation. 

Radioactive poodles and ice cream...

How often do you see these two guys hanging out?

We stayed in an apartment owned by family friends who treated us with prodigious hospitality

The painted homes of La Boca

One of the most striking and thought-provoking sites we found was concealed under an overpass of a busy highway.  There an archeological dig in the side of a hill serves as a searing reminder of the atrocities committed under Argentina's military dictatorship during the 1970s and 80s.  Before the highway was built, a Federal Police building occupied this space, in the basement of which hundreds of political prisoners were detained and tortured.  Most were never seen again, entering the ranks of the over 20,000 Argentines who disappeared during this darkest chapter of their country's history.  Archeologists have found chunks of wall with scrawled messages written by prisoners and artifacts from the center.

The text reads: Memory Recovery Project of the Clandestine Center of Detention and Torture "Club Atlético"

The famous Floralis Genérica.  The petals originally opened each morning and closed each evening, but it has been broken for years...way to go Buenos Aires. 

The hallowed hallways of the Recoleta Cemetery. 

We took in some nightlife for good measure.  The clubs don't begin to fill up until 3am...

We were so fortunate to be welcomed like family by our connections in Buenos Aires.  This city has a beating heart and a vivacious spirit that profoundly impacts even the most casual visitor. 

En fin, it's been a phenomenal six weeks, full of introspection, conversation and laughs.  Traveling with Mark was a true honor--I could have asked for no better companion.  Hasta la vista, Argentina.  Where we going next, Mark?!

Appropriately ending our trip as it began, with an excellent mate session.  Such reception...thank you Beverly and Victor!

Spectacular Iguazu Waterfalls

After 3.5 weeks in Patagonia, Mark and I were ready to change scenery completely.  So we boarded a series of planes and made our way to the northernmost tip of Agentina, to the province of Misiones.  There, two great rivers come together to delineate the triple border between Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. One of these two rivers, the Río Iguazú, happens to take a 200-foot free-fall, creating one of the most humbling natural vistas I've ever seen.  I'll let the pictures do the talking.

Welcome to Iguazu!

How bout a boat ride under the falls?

The two bearded travelers are not intimidated.

Mark's waterproof GoPro captures our reaction...

Worth it!

What makes Iguazu so amazing is the great quantity of falls--both large and small--and the fact that each individual cascade is framed by verdant jungle. 

It was Eleanor Roosevelt who proclaimed, upon seeing Iguazu for the first time, "Poor Niagara!"

Still excited about the sunshine in February

The most impressive lookout - La Garganta del Diablo (the Devil's Throat)

It was the volume of water...

...and the brute force that most awed us

And at the end of a hot jungle day...

...we naturally found our own natural shower!

For just a few nights a month, when the moon is full, the park opens so photographers can try their best to capture the waterfalls with long exposures.  We had the great fortune to not only be there during the full moon, but to score an evening with clear skies as well.  We bit the bullet and purchased the expensive tickets (made more expensive by a mandatory, underwhelming buffet dinner) and took a train out to the Garganta del Diablo.  Night photography is one my greatest passions and I can imagine no better canvas than the legendary Iguazu Falls under a full moon.  What a spectacular place.  

Photo credit: Ray

Photo credit: Ray

Photo credit: Mark

Photo credit: Mark

Photo credit: Mark